Whenever compiling a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate familiar high-end establishments. But, nestled prominently among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying corner of northern London.
This little Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. This recognition has left the proprietors utterly shocked.
“I’m completely astonished,” says the proprietor, alluding to his family’s hard graft that led to their humble shop earning such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.
This small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its original feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.
However, it is focused on the fare, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy texture.
The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.
The wrap is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.
There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.
For dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.
Notably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.
While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, equivalent meals at luxury establishments can cost many times that figure.
It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.
“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”
The view is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.
Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at elite establishments. “I am very happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.
Numerous restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.
“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.
This restaurant’s success is bound to echo outside its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this gastronomic honour.
Escritora y crítica literaria apasionada por la narrativa contemporánea y la poesía.